Island Peak Climbing Nepal
Mera and Island Peak Climbing

Mera Amphu Labtsa Island Peak Climbing

This expedition is not only an introduction to high altitude mountaineering, it is a wonderland of nature and breathtaking scenes of the Himalayas. The route follows the route of the Mera Peak expedition, but after descending from its summit to the Mera La pass the trail branches we head north-east into the mountain wilderness of the Upper Hongu Valley. Mount Lhotse and Everest are visible directly in front of us as we follow the valley along the towering rock face of Chamlang until we reach the sacred lakes at Panch Pokhri. Next we face the Amphu Labsta pass, 5700m, a tough technical crossing, and descend into the Imja Valley, where we will set up a base camp and prepare to summit Island Peak, 6189m, which lies close to the imposing south face of Lhotse. After the summit we descend the Everest Trail stopping in the Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar before completing the circuit trek at Lukla.

Mera and Island Peak Group

Who should do the Mera Peak, Amphu Labtsa and Island Peak expedition

Although this expedition has some very easy and basic trails, the trek is graded STRENUOUS because the schedule includes five continuous nights over 5100meters in very remote locations and because of two 6100m peaks. There are good trails for most of the route, including a well-marked trail in the snow leading over the Mera La. The paths in the upper Hongu Valley are less used but the underfoot conditions are still relatively easy.

The first few days trail between Lukla and Tagnag passes through delightful rhododendron and pine forests, whilst higher up beyond Kothay, there is no vegetation.

Annapurna Foothills Treks and Expeditions provides you with Sherpas and porters who are well experienced and well equipped for the high altitude who will be able to assure your safe execution of the expedition.

There is little chance of buying supplies on the way: all trekkers should be well prepared with the personal effects they require during the trek.

Sherpa Climbing Guide

 

Climbing difficulty

Mera Peak: The normal route by the north face to the summit of Mera Peak, is not technically difficult. It is rarely steeper than 30 degrees, except for the final 30-40m climb to the summit where fixed lines are used for safety. Ski sticks are useful in soft snowy conditions and a single walking axe for hard snow and ice. Although any climbing at these altitudes is strenuous and exhausting, the route is carefully designed to allow for your acclimatization. Stopping for two nights and one day at high camp, 5800m, will give you the best possible chance of reaching the summit.

seto pokhari

Amphu Labtsa pass: This is more technical than Mera Peak. It will be necessary to surmount a series of ice steps (using a fixed line for safety) to reach the rocky crest, and from the summit you will use a figure 8 to make a 35m abseil to where you will reach the fixed lines for the remaining 300m descent of over 30 - 40 degrees in snow and rock until you reach easier slopes.

Island Peak: This Mountain is technically more demanding than Mera Peak. Though lower in altitude it involves climbing 45 degree snow covered slopes and the summit ridge is completely exposed. Fixed lines are used on all exposed sections but rope climbing skills are required; for this reason our experienced guides will give you a thorough training during the climb of Mera Peak and again before the summit of Island Peak.

Then there are the five sacred lakes in front of us and we have reached one of the most fantastic places of the earth: the Panch Pokhris at the foot of the impressive Baruntse, 7.168 m high.

It is very quiet. Up here, many gods of the Himalayas have their throne. No wonder people believe this, with all of the beauty, that one experiences here high above.

group summit

Itinerary: 

Day 1 : Arrive in Kathmandu 1300m

Day 2 : Preparation Day in Kathmandu 1300m

Day 3 : Fly to Lukla, 2820m, and trek to Paiya (Chutok), 2730m: 3-4 hrs

Day 4 : Trek to Pangoma, 2850m: 5-6 hrs

Day 5 : Trek to Ningsaw 2745m: 4-5 hrs

Day 6 : Trek to Chhatrwa Khola, 3150m: 7-8 hrs

Day 7 : Trek to Kote, 3600m: 6-7 hrs

Day 8 : Trek to Thangnak, 4356m, 5hrs

Day 9 : Trek to Khare, 5045m, 4-5 hrs

Day 10 : Acclimatization Day in Khare /Preparation day

Day 11 : Trek to Mera La, 5415m, to Base Camp 5350m, 3-4 hrs

Day 12 : Trek to High Camp, 5780m, 4 hrs

Day 13 : Mera Peak Ascent and Decent to Kongma Dingma

Day 14 : Reserve Day

Day 15 : Trek to Hongu river Seto Pokhari 5000m 4-5 hrs

Day 16 : Trek to below the Amphu Labtsu base camp 5400m 4 hrs

Day 17 : The Amphu Labtsa Pass (5,780m) and descends to Imja Valley 10 hrs

Day 18 : Trek to Island Peak Base Camp Camp (5,200m 3hrs

Day 19 : Island Peak Summit, 6189m. Descend to Base Camp Overnight in a lodge 8-10 hrs

Day 20 : Trek to Tengbuche 3860m 4 hrs

Day 21 : Trek to Namche 3500m 4 hrs Overnight Lodge

Day 22 : Trek to Lukla 2700m 7-8 hrs

Day 23 : Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu 1300m

Day 24 : Free Day in Kathmandu

Day 25 : Departure

"Only one click away from the destination of a life time"

Trip Cost : 

S.N.  1 Pax 2-4 Pax 5-12 Pax
US $ 4000 3700 3500

Cost Include(s)

  • Transfer from Airport – Hotel – Airport: Car, Van, Hi-ace or Coaster in a private vehicle.
  • Authentic Nepali welcome dinner with Live Nepalese Cultural Program.
  • Accommodation in Kathmandu, Four  nights on Twin share Bed and Breakfast Basis.
  • Accommodation during Trek ; local lodges 12 nights (Full board meals with twin-share rooms ,beds with comfortable foam mattress and pillows)
  • Accommodation during Camping ; Meals during 8 nights camping (breakfast, lunch, dinner, tang juice, fruit, tea and coffee)
  • English speaking experienced Sherpa guide (Govt. Trained/License Holder).
  • All Camping Equipment required during the trek, sleeping tents/mattresses, kitchen tent, kitchen equipment
  • All required Personal and Group Climbing gears 
  • Climbing rope, Ice screws, Snow bar
  • Trekking cook, kitchen staff, Trek Sherpa and other support staff while on Mera and Island peak climbing
  • One Sherpa guide-assistant if group size is more than 4 Trekkers.
  • Porters: One porter for 2 Trekkers basis.
  • Trek Staff costs including their salary, insurance, equipment, food and accommodation.
  • Personal insurance for Nepalese staff.
  • Annapurna Foothill’s Duffle bag for Trekking.
  • First aid medicine kit.
  • Mera and island Peak Permit
  • Lobuche Peak Permit, Sagarmatha National Park Fee, TIMS permits & all required permits or Official Documentation.
  • Round-Trip airfare between Kathmandu and Lukla (Airport Tax Included)
  • All government and local taxes.
  • Mera and Island Peak climbing certificates issued from the respective body of Nepal Government.

Personal Climbing Gears includes:

  • Crampons
  • Harness 
  • Ice Axe
  • 2 x Tape slings
  • 2 x Screwgate Karabiners
  • Descender / Abseil Device (Jumar)
  • Prussic Loops
  • Helmet

Cost Exclude(s)

  • Your Personal Travel Insurance.
  • Nepal Entry Visa Fee and International round-trip airfare.
  • Lunch & Dinner in cities - allow $ 10 to 14 for per meal in Tourist restaurants.
  • Beverages (soft drinks, mineral water and beer).
  • Tips for guide, porters and driver (customary).
  • Any personal expenses not mentioned in above services.
  • Additional night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early return from Trek (due to any reason) than the planned itinerary.

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